Motorhome Pre-Departure Checklist — Before You Drive
BeginnerComplete pre-departure checklist for Class A, Class B, and Class C motorhome owners. Covers engine checks, cabin securing, utility disconnection, and safety verification — everything you need before turning the key.
Checklist 52
Disconnect and stow shore power cord
Turn off the breaker at the pedestal FIRST, then disconnect. Coil loosely — tight coiling damages the cord over time.
Disconnect and drain fresh water hose
Disconnect at the pedestal first, then the coach. Hold hose above your head and walk it to drain. Coil and stow in a dedicated clean bag.
Dump and flush black tank if needed
Black first, then gray — the gray water helps rinse the sewer hose. Use a tank rinser if available. Never leave a black tank valve open while hooked up.
Dump gray tank
Dump after the black tank to flush the sewer hose.
Disconnect and rinse sewer hose, stow in carrier
Rinse inside and out. Let drip-dry briefly before stowing. A dedicated storage tube or bumper mount keeps it separated from other gear.
Close all tank dump valves and replace caps
Double check both black and gray valves are fully closed. Ensure the sewer outlet cap is threaded back on.
Disconnect cable/satellite if applicable
Retract satellite dish if equipped. Stow external coax cable.
Check engine oil level
With engine cold on level ground. Top off if below the add line. Diesel pushers — check both engine and generator oil.
Check coolant level in overflow reservoir
Never open a hot radiator cap. Coolant should be between MIN and MAX lines.
Check transmission fluid level
Engine running, transmission in Park. Refer to your chassis manual for the correct procedure — some require the engine warm, others cold.
Check power steering fluid
Low fluid causes hard steering and pump whine. Top off with the type specified on the reservoir cap.
Check brake fluid reservoir
Should be between MIN and MAX. If consistently low, have brake pads inspected — low fluid often means worn pads.
Inspect belts for cracks or glazing
Serpentine belt drives alternator, A/C, and power steering. Cracks on the ribbed side or shiny glazing means replacement is due.
Verify no fluid leaks under the coach
Walk around and check under the engine area, transmission, and generator. Fresh spots on pavement indicate active leaks.
Check DEF fluid level (diesel only)
Diesel exhaust fluid runs out faster than you expect. Carry a spare 2.5 gallon jug. Engine will derate if DEF runs empty.
Retract all slide-outs
Clear all items from slide edges before retracting. Check above and below the slide for obstructions. Verify slides are fully retracted and locked.
Retract leveling jacks or remove leveling blocks
Auto-leveling systems: use the retract/travel mode. Manual jacks: fully retract and secure with pins. Collect all blocks and chocks.
Retract TV antenna and lower satellite dish
The antenna is the most commonly damaged item in low-clearance situations. Verify it is fully down and crank is locked.
Roll up and secure awning(s)
Ensure awning is tight with no sag. Verify travel locks are engaged. Check for any rips or loose stitching while rolling.
Close and lock all exterior storage compartments
Tug each door handle after latching. Items shift during travel and can push doors open if not fully latched.
Secure LP gas tanks — close valves for travel
Close LP tank valves while driving. Running the fridge on LP while traveling is debated — most manufacturers recommend against it, and some states require valves closed at fuel stops.
Verify roof A/C shrouds are secure
Visually check from the ground. A loose or cracked shroud at highway speed will break apart.
Remove wheel chocks
Both sides, all axles. Easy to forget the ones on the opposite side from the driver.
Check all exterior lights — headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals
Have someone stand behind the coach while you cycle through each. Replace any burnt bulbs before departure.
Verify clearance height reminder is visible
Write your total height on a sticky note on the dash or visor. Include A/C units and antennas. This prevents bridge and gas station canopy strikes.
Adjust mirrors for full visibility down both sides
You should see the full length of the coach and any toad behind you. Adjust convex mirrors separately from flat mirrors.
Check dash warning lights — start engine and verify all clear
Check engine, oil pressure, battery, ABS, air pressure (if equipped). Do not drive with active warning lights until you know what they mean.
Verify GPS route avoids low bridges and weight-restricted roads
Standard car GPS routes through tunnels, low bridges, and residential streets that can't handle your coach. Use an RV-specific GPS or app like RV Trip Wizard with your height, weight, and length entered.
Check fuel level and plan first fuel stop
Motorhomes burn fuel fast — plan conservatively. Know your tank size and typical consumption. Not all gas stations can accommodate a 40ft coach.
Verify emergency kit is accessible — fire extinguisher, first aid, road flares
Fire extinguisher should be near the driver's seat, not buried in a basement compartment. Check the gauge shows green.
One final walk around — full 360° exterior check
Look up (antenna, vents, A/C), look down (jacks, chocks, hoses, blocks), look at each side (slides, awning, compartments). This 60-second walk catches 90% of departure mistakes.
Latch all cabinet doors and drawers
Cabinets above the dinette and bedroom are the worst offenders. Even latched doors can pop open — consider child locks on problem cabinets.
Secure refrigerator door with travel latch
Most RV refrigerators have a built-in travel latch or bar. If yours doesn't, a bungee cord or Velcro strap works. A fridge door opening at 60 mph is a mess.
Clear countertops and table of loose items
Coffee makers, knife blocks, fruit bowls — anything on a countertop becomes a projectile during a hard stop.
Secure TV on wall mount or stow in padded bag
Articulating TV mounts should be pushed flush and locked. If your mount doesn't lock, remove the TV and stow it.
Close all windows and roof vents
Roof vents in particular — an open MaxxAir at highway speed will get ripped off. Close and latch every vent.
Ensure nothing is blocking the driver area or pedals
Shoes, water bottles, and pet toys slide under the pedals. Clear the entire footwell.
Verify bathroom door is latched open or closed (not swinging free)
An unlatched bathroom door swings with every turn and will damage walls or break the latch.
Stow any slide-out room furniture that was moved
Chairs and tables positioned in the slide path will block retraction or get damaged. Return everything to travel position.
Check tire pressure on all tires including spare
Check cold (before driving). Use the pressure listed on the tire placard inside the driver's door or in the owner's manual — not the sidewall max.
Inspect tires for sidewall cracks, bulges, or uneven wear
RV tires degrade from UV and age even with low mileage. Replace tires older than 5-7 years regardless of tread depth. Check the DOT date code on the sidewall.
Verify lug nuts are tight
Use a torque wrench — don't guess. Torque specs vary by chassis (typically 110-140 ft-lbs for light duty, 450+ for Class A).
Test service brakes before leaving
Pull forward a few feet and brake firmly. Both sides should grab evenly with no pulling or grinding.
Test parking brake engagement
Set the parking brake on a slight incline. The coach should hold without creeping.
Check air brake pressure (air brake chassis only)
Start engine and let air build to governor cut-out (typically 120-135 psi). With engine off, pressure should not drop more than 3 psi per minute.
Connect tow bar to motorhome receiver and dinghy baseplate
Verify both pins are fully inserted and clipped. Check that the tow bar arms lock into position — most have an audible click.
Attach safety cables — crossed under the tow bar
Cables cross underneath so the dinghy tongue lands in the cradle if the tow bar fails. Allow enough slack for turns but not enough to drag.
Connect supplemental braking system and verify indicator light
Required by law in most states for vehicles over 1,000-3,000 lbs. Verify the dashboard indicator shows the braking system is active.
Connect lighting harness to dinghy
Verify turn signals, brake lights, and running lights all work on the dinghy. Have someone confirm from behind.
Put dinghy transmission in neutral or tow mode per manufacturer instructions
This varies significantly by vehicle. Some require the key in ACC, some require a fuse pull, some have a dedicated tow mode. Follow your specific vehicle's flat-tow procedure exactly — towing in the wrong gear will destroy the transmission.
Disengage dinghy parking brake
The supplemental braking system handles braking. Leaving the parking brake on will cause brake damage.
Turn dinghy steering wheel to verify it moves freely
If the steering locks, you'll drag the tires sideways. The ignition usually needs to be in ACC to unlock the steering column.
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